All Velocity wheels are hand built by
We are very confident in the quality of our builds. When you receive a wheel built by The Wheel Department it will be ready to ride. Our wheels should not need to be re-trued or re-tensioned after initial riding. We do not believe in a "break-in" period. You should not break spokes under normal riding conditions. Wheels are both radially and laterally true, dished perfectly, built to high and even tension, fully stress relieved and ready to ride, right out of the box.
First, clean your wheels often. The process of cleaning is a great chance to inspect your wheels, keep an eye on the wear, and discover any damage that could have occurred while riding. There are many outside forces that effect bicycle wheels so minor adjustments may need to be made throughout the wheel's life. These adjustments should be made by a professional mechanic or wheel builder using appropriate tools for the components.
It is of the upmost importance to use the appropriate spoke length for every wheel. A common misconception in wheel building is assuming that when spoke threads are covered by the nipple, spokes are the correct length—this is not true. Full thread engagement is paramount when building a wheel; one of the worst things you can do is to use spokes that are too short. If the spoke is not engaging the threads near the bottom of the nipple, strength will be compromised. If the spokes are too long achieving proper tension is not possible. Spoke length is even more critical when using alloy nipples, since they require full engagement throughout the head of the nipple to maintain adequate strength. The Wheel Department stocks a large variety of spoke lengths and use a Phil Wood spoke cutter to precisely size each spoke for every unique build.
All of our wheels use non-proprietary spokes and nipples to allow for easy replacement if a failure occurs. Accidents happen, but they shouldn't leave you stranded.
We use our own brand of 14 gauge spoke, as well as DT Swiss Champion and Competition spokes. Our bladed spoke of choice is the venerable Sapim CX-Ray from Belgium. We carry silver and black brass nipples from DT Swiss, and multiple colored alloy nipples from DT and Sapim.
All wheels are designed with careful consideration of the performance and cost characteristics associated to each spoke and nipple.
Lacing patterns are chosen with three goals in mind: Strength, durability, weight. Strength comes from the bracing angles that the spokes provide.
A drive wheel or disc wheel must have the ability to transmit torque, so a crossing pattern is used. Contrary to popular belief, adding 'crosses' does not make a wheel stronger. Higher crossing patterns are typically used on higher spoke count wheels, because the geometry of the lacing pattern calls for it. Ideally, neighboring spokes will exit the hub flange parallel to one another, so stress on the hub flange is minimized. Therefore, we base the crossing pattern of each wheel on hub flange size, rim ERD, and spoke count.
Front rim brake wheels and non-torque sides of disc and drive wheels can be laced radially to add a bit of lateral rigidity to the wheel while also saving a bit of weight, since radial spokes are shorter than crossed spokes. Often times we'll lace a wheel with a crossing pattern when a radial spoke is sufficient in order to provide more uniform spoke lengths throughout the wheelset. This adds an increased element of serviceability to the finished product.
Optimal Tire Width Suggestion
Clean the surface of the rim using a light degreaser and finsh with rubbing alcohol. Make sure there is no remaining residue or moisture on the rim before beginning to apply the Velotape.
Starting in the center of the rim at the join (opposite the valve hole), begin to apply the Velotape. Make sure the tape is seated in the center of the rim with no air bubbles. Tape must completely cover all of the spoke holes.
For applications under 45 psi (3.1 bar), tape once completely around the rim, pulling the tape tight. Overlap past the join by 2 to 3 inches (5 to 8 cm), and cut with a sharp pair of scissors. For applications over 45 psi (3.1 bar), do the same, but tape twice completely around the rim (two layers).
Using a pointed punch (or phillips screwdriver(, carefully poke a hole through the Velotape at the valve hole.
Remove the lock nut and washers from the provided valve. Insert the valve into the valve hole, matching the contour of the valve's rubber base to the contour of the rim's taped web. Install one or both provided washers onto the valve stem*. Install the lock nut onto the valve stem, and while pressing on the valve's rubber base with your thumb, tighten the lock nut as firmly as possible by hand.
*The white nylon washer is provided for shallow section rims, like the Velocity Dually. It provides extra spacing so the lock nut does not bottom out on the valve stem's threads prematurely. If you are installing the valve on a deeper section rim, you may use either the nylon washer, or the stainless steels washer, or both.
Tight Tire Installation